Production of textile threads and fabrics



Patented Aug. 23, 1938 PRODUCTION OF TEXTILE THREADS AND FABRICS Henry Dreyfus, London, England No Drawing. Application May 22, 1936, Serial No. 81,268. In Great Britain May' #1:. 1935 in Claims. (Cl. m4)

This invention relates to the manufacture oi form as materially to modify the lustre of the crepe threads consisting of or containing filafilaments (e. g. barium sulphate or titanium dioxments of regenerated cellulose. ide). or loading metal compounds, for example It has been found that crepe threads consisting tin compounds. 5 of or containing filaments of regenerated cellu- In carrying out the newprocess twisting is very 5 lose may very advantageously be produced by advantageously eflected on a device of the kind. crepe twisting a thread of regenerated cellulose in which the thread is drawn oil over the end of filaments and subjecting the thread, during the a rotating package through a guide fixed subinsertion of crepe twist, to the action of steam stantially in line with the axis of rotation of in a. substantially closed chamber, or to theacthe package and is thereafter wound ona bobbin 10 tion of hot water, so that at least the last part or the like, the thread being passed through the of the crepe twist is inserted while the thread is steam chamber or the hot water on its way from under the influence oi the steam or hotwater. the guide to the bobbin. In this way-the yarn In accordance with the present invention, is subjected to the action of the steam or hot therefore, in the production 01' highly twisted water during the actual insertion of twist. 15 crepe threads of regenerated cellulose, e. g. cellu- On the other hand, any other suitable crepe lose regenerated from viscose or cuprammonium twisting device may be employed. For example solutions, the threads are, during the insertion of a ring twister may be used for the crepe twistcrepe twist, subjected to the action of steam in ing of thread consisting oi discontinuous fila-. a substantially closed chamber, or to the action ments. of hot water, so that at least the last part of the The twisting spindle, the guide fixed in line crpe twist is inserted while the thread is under with the axis of the spindle, and the steaming the influence of the steam or hot water. When device or the hot water treatment device, should using steam it is of great advantage to have moisbe so arranged that the twist resulting from the ture present. Thus the thread may be passed rotation of the package is at least partly inserted 25 through a substantially closed chamber mainwhile the thread is under the influence of the tained full of steam under such conditions that steam or hot water. For example when twisting moisture is present, so that at least a portion of the thread by the rotation of a package from that part of the track of the running thread in which the thread is being drawn oil, it the tree- 3 which twisting actually takes place is within the dom oi the thread to rotate within the balloon steam chamber. Twist is thus inserted while guide or other guide preceding or forming part the thread is under the influence of a hot medium of the treatment device is unduly restricted, e. g. which is substantially entirely aqueous. by causing the thread to change direction mate- By the new process it is possible to produce rially at the guides, the insertion of twist while crepe threads of regenerated cellulose filaments, the thread is under the influence oi the steam or 35 said threads being very much stronger than those hot water maybe restricted to an undesirable obtainable by crepe twisting a thread of regenextent or substantially prevented and the resulterated cellulose filaments without'the aid of the ing crepe threads may not have the valuable steam or hot water. Moreover, the new threads properties which may otherwise be secured. Thus 40 h v f a iv n de ree f tw st sup r cr p s when usinga twisting device of the kind in which 40 p and with their 816 Crepe effects may be thread is drawn oil over the end oi a rotating obtained which are finer and more regular than package. it is advantageous to m that the those obtainable with regenerated cellulose path of the thread after leaving the balloon guide threads which have been crepe twisted in the and through the treatment device is substam ordinary manner. v

The threads may consist of substantially conign- 23 11;? 123 f is tinuous filaments or they may consist of discono a n8 1' w ere n8 tinuous filaments the length of which may vary elected by the rotation package on to which "the thread is being wound-the thread passing within wide limits. For example the th eads may be those spun from a mass of discontinuous filathrough the steam chamber or the hot water on 50 ments or those prepared in the manner described way from the device to the twisting in British Patents Nos. 424,683 and 424,830. 891111118. a chance o ion t th p in at If desired the filaments of the threads ma which the thread leaves the steam-chamber or contain water-insoluble compounds, whether the ot Water s of 1888 p ta as t ad compounds of pigment-like character in such remains under the influence oi the steam or hot 55' water for a short time after leaving the steam chamber or hot water as the case may be.

The phrase "twist is inserted while the thread is under the influence of the steam or hot water means that that portion of the run of the thread in which twist is being inserted is either in the steam or hot water or still under the influence of the steam or hot water.

If desired, the above-mentioned twisting devices, in which the thread is drawn off over the end of a rotating package, may be provided with a device which restricts the ballooning of the thread or the tendency of twist to run back to the package. As examples of such devices may be mentioned flyers and the floating ring device described in U. S. Patent No. 1,784,581. The latter device is of particular value when the thread to be twisted is of very low twist, for example less than about 1 turn per inch.

When employing steam the new process may be carried out using a vertical twisting spindle of the type in which thread is drawn off upwardly over the end of a rotating package through a guide substantially in line with the axis of the spindle, provided with a small chamber situated vertically above the spindle. The chamber is provided with small holes, top and bottom, to

permit passage of the thread, and also with a steam inlet. If desired, a single steam chamber may be arranged to serve a number of spindles, being provided with inlet and outlet holes for the thread of each spindle. Such an apparatus may conveniently consist of a horizontal pipe mounted' over a row of spindles and provided with eyes of porcelain, stainless steel, or other suitable material at appropriate points on top and bottom for the entrance and exit of the threads. The diameter of the pipe is snflicient to afford the thread the requisite length of travel in the steam. Steam may be admitted to the pipe at one point or at more than one point as may be necessary according to the length ofthe pipe, to secure sufliciently uniform conditions of steaming as between the threads from the different spindles.

If desired the pipe may be of less diameter than affords the thread the requisite length .of travel and be fitted with upwardly projecting vertical tubes communicating with the inside of the pipe at their lower ends, closed at their upper ends except for eyes for the passage of the thread, and of such length as to aflord, together with the diameter of the pipe, the required length of path in the steam for the thread. The threads enter by eyes in the lower side of the horizontal pipe and leave by the eyes in theupper ends of the verticaltubes.

At the point at which the thread from the twisting {spindle enters the steam chamber, it is advantageous to arrange a free escape of steam on to the thread as it is drawn ofi from the spindle. A shield, for example in the form of a funnel, may, if desired, be fitted around the thread approaching the steam chamber in order to maintain an atmosphere of steam around the thread.

The presence of the desired moisture may be assured by arranging for the condensation of steam. Dry steam may be passed through water so as to saturate the steam and the requisite moisture produced by cooling in the steam chamber. The above mentioned form of steam chamber comprising a horizontal pipe with upwardly projecting tubes to afford the requisite length of path in the steam for the threads is advantageous when condensation of steam is desired. Another method of ensuring the presence of moisture is to wet the thread with water; for example the bobbins of thread may be wetted before the twisting operation or better, water may be applied to the thread, by means of a wick or other device, after the thread leaves the spindle and prior to its entering the steaming device. The water may contain a substance which facilitates wetting of the thread by water.

Good results may be obtained by'using steam at above 0. Steam temperatures in the neighbourhood of 100 C., for example to or 98 to 100 C. are advantageous. Steam at about atmospheric pressure, e. g. slightly above atmospheric pressure, is conveniently employed. However, if desired steam may be effected with steam at any desired superatmospheric pressure, e. g. steam at 10 to 25 lbs. per square inch.

The path of the thread through the steam chamber may be comparatively short, for example 1 to 3 inches, though longer paths may be employed if desired, for example 3 to 6 inches.

Treatment of the thread with hot water during twisting may be effected by drawing the thread ofl from a twisting spindle and passing it upwardly through a suitable receptacle containing hot water and having a small hole below the water level for the passage of the thread, the thread then passing to a winding device. The hole may be, for example, about of an inch in diameter and may be provided with means adapted to lead away and prevent from reaching the twisting spindle, any water issuing from the hole. If desired, the hole may take the, form of a short tube of fine bore, fixed in the receptacle, whereby the flow of water from the receptacle at the point of entrance of the thread may be reduced. A similar arrangement may be used when crepe twisting is effected as the thread is wound on to a rotating package. In this case the thread may conveniently pass downwards through the water to the twisting spindle. Another method is to supply hot water to the thread. For example, the thread may be caused to pass in contact with a horizontally disposed roller, preferably circumferentially grooved, arranged to rotate in a bath of hot water and so to carry water to the thread.

The duration of the treatment with hot water may be relatively short, such as may be secured when the thread is travelling at a speed of 2-10 metres per minute and is in contact with hot water for 1-3 inches of its travel. Lengthier treatments may however be employed. The temperature of the water may be 80-100 C., for instahce 90-100 C. If desired, the hot water may be employed under pressure, for example 2-10 or 15 pounds or more per square inch. The use of pressure enables the water to be employed at higher temperatures than is possible under atmospheric pressure. By using pressure, therefore, the temperature of the water may be above 100 C. and up to the boiling point of water at the pressure employed. Water may be employed under pressure, however, when the temperature is below 100 C. The hot water may contain agents which'facilitate the wetting of the threads.

The initial thread may already be twisted to a small degree, for example up to 10 turns per inch, e. g. to 2-5 turns per inch or to such small degree as is commonly applied to artificial silk continuously with the spinning thereof.

In carrying out the new process the crepe twist .of regenerated cellulose.

may be applied in a single stage. If desired, however, the crepe twist may be applied in two or more stages, the final stage of twisting being effected whilst steaming the thread in a sub stantially closed chamber or whilst treating the thread with hot water.

When the crepe twist is applied in two or more stages the advantages of the process may be obing are also effected while steaming the thread or treating it with hot water. In fact it is of great advantage to effect, while steaming the thread or treating it with hot water, any application of twist beyond the point at which twisting would result in weakening of the thread if the said twisting were effected without the steaming or hot water treatment.

The precise degree of twist beyond which it is advantageous to steam or treat with hot water during twisting depends upon the total denier of the thread and the number of its constituent filaments. Generally at least the last half or two thirds of the total crepe twist should be applied whilst steaming the thread or treating it with hot water.

The degree of twist applied in accordance with the new process may be that commonly employed in the production of crpe threads of filaments For example,.twists of from 40 to 75 turns per inchlmay be employed, according to the denier and number of filaments in the thread. Higher twists may, however, be employed, and a feature of the new process is that it enables very high degrees of twist to be applied without such a great weakening of the thread as is commonly experienced when high degrees of twist are applied without the steam or hot watertreatment.

If the crepe twist is applied in two or more stages the twist may be divided between the twisting stages in various proportions. Twist applied in the absence of the steam or hot water treatment should not be of such degree as to damage the thread. To this end, as indicated previously, twisting without the steam or hot water treatment should not be efiected where the twist applied is sufficient to result in substantial weakening of the thread.

A particularly convenient method of working is to apply about one sixth to one quarter or one half of the total crepe twist without the steam or hot water treatment, say up to 10 or 15-25 or even in some cases up to 30 turns per inch, and then to complete the crepe twist while steaming the thread or treating it with hot water.

The regenerated cellulose filaments of the threads readily undergo stretching when the threads are twisted while steaming or treating with hot water. The amount of stretch may be i measured by comparing the original thread denier with the final thread denier- (after untwisting). The denier of the resultant thread is, in

general, owing to imparted stretch, less than if v .the steam or hot water theatment is omitted.

state.

filaments may be those obtainable by substantially completely saponifying filaments of cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, orother organic or inorganic ester of cellulose. If desired, the crepe threads may be made with filaments of regenerated cellulose such as have been stretched, preferably those stretched while in a softened Saponified cellulose ester filaments, if desired, may be those obtainable by substantially completely saponifying cellulose ester filaments which have been stretched, for example while in a softened state, as described for instance in U. S. Patent No. 1,709,470 and British Patent Nos. 323,790, 370,430 and 371,461, or have been stretched in steam or hot water as described in British Patent Nos. 438,584 and 438,586.

The invention particularly contemplates the production of crepe threads consisting wholly of regenerated cellulose filaments, whether wholly of filaments of regenerated cellulose of one kind or in part of filaments of regenerated cellulose of one kind and in part of filaments of regen-' erated cellulose of another kind. If desired, however, the threads may be composed in part of regenerated cellulose filaments, and in part of filaments of another material, for example, natural silk, wool or cotton. As in the case .of regenerated cellulose filaments, such other filaments may be substantially continuous filaments and/or discontinuous filaments.

While the new process enables production of threads which yield satisfactory crepe effects without a-special treatment. other than the twisting and steaming or hot water treatment characteristic of the process, other devices and treatments may, if desired, be employed further to improve the properties of the crepe threads and/or fabrics produced therefrom. For example, the twist may be irregular in character as described in U. S. Patent No. 2.061.614. Further, the crepe threads may be sized at any suitable stage of their manufacture, for example prior to the application of twist, or at least any substantial proportion of the twist. In this connection, particular mention maybe made of sizing materials selected in accordance with the considerations laid down in U. S. Patent No. 2,007,182. For example a casein, egg-albumen or other size which is not very readily removed by aqueous treatments may be employed. Sizing may also be effected with the aid of drying oils, for example boiled or blown linseed oil.

The highly twisted crepe threads may be incorporated-in the fabrics in various ways, for example the weft alone may be.wholly or partiallycomposed of such threads or the warp may also contain them. Valuable fabrics may be produced by employing warp threads of relatively low twist and in the weft both crpe threads having a left-hand twist and crpe threads having a right-handtwist, pairs of threads of lefthand twist alternating with pairs of threads of right-hand twist.

Fabrics containing highly twisted crpe threads prepared in accordance with the invention may subsequently be given a hot aqueous treatment, for example in the manner commonly adopted in connection with fabrics comprising highly twisted yarns of natural silk. Such treatment may be, for instance, treatment in a hot aqueous soap solution'at a temperature of 75-85" C. or at higher temperatures, e. g. at the boil.

Having described my invention what I desire to secure by Letters Patent ls:--

1. Process for the production of a highly twisted crepe thread, which comprises crpe twisting a. thread containing regenerated cellulose filaments and during the insertion of at least the last part of the crepe twist passing the thread through a substantially closed chamber maintained full of steam so that twist is inserted while the thread is under the influence of the steam.

2. Process for the production of a. highly twisted crepe thread, which comprises crpe twisting a thread of regenerated cellulose filaments and during the insertion of at least the last part of the crepe twist passing the thread through a substantially closed chamber maintained full of steam under conditions such that moisture is present, so that twist is inserted while the thread is under the influence of the steam.

3. Process for the production of a highly twisted 'crpe thread, which comprises crepe twisting a thread of regenerated cellulose filaments and during the insertion of at least the last part of the crpe twist passing the thread through a substantially closed chamber maintained full of steam at above 90 C., under conditions such that moisture is present, so that twist is inserted while the thread is under the influence of the steam.

4. Process for the production of ahighly twisted crpe thread, which comprises crpe twisting a thread of regenerated cellulose filaments in a single stage and during the insertion of the crepe twist passing the thread through a substantially closed chamber maintained full of steam at above 90 C., under conditions such that moisture is present, so that twist is inserted while the thread is under the influence of the steam.

5. Process for the production of a highly twisted crepe thread, which comprises crepe twisting a thread'of regenerated cellulose filaments in at least two stages and during the flnal stage of twisting passing the thread through a substantially closed chamber maintained full of steam under conditions such that moisture is present, so

that twist is inserted while the thread is under present, so that twist is inserted while the thread is under the influence of the steam, at least the last part of the twisting being effected by the rotation of a package on which the thread is being wound.

7. Process for the production of ahighly twisted crpe thread, which comprises crpe twisting a thread of regenerated cellulose filaments and during the insertion of at least the last part of the twist passing the thread through a substantially closed chamber maintained full of steam under conditions such that moisture is present so that twist is inserted as the thread passes through the steaming chamber, at least the last part of the twist being efiected by the rotation of a package from which the thread is being drawn.

8. Process for the production of a highly twisted crepe thread, which comprises crpe twisting a thread of regenerated cellulose filaments prepared by saponifying cellulose ester filaments, and during the insertion of at least the last part of the twist passing the thread through a substantially closed chamber maintained full of steam under conditions such that moisture is present, so that twist is inserted while the thread is under the influence of the steam.

9. Process for the production of a highly twisted crpe thread, which comprises crepe twisting a thread of regenerated cellulose filaments prepared by saponifying cellulose ester filaments which have been stretched, and during the insertion of at least the last part of the twist passing the thread through a substantially closed chamber maintained full of steam under conditions such that moisture is present, so that twist is inserted while the thread is under the influence of the steam.

10. Process for the production of a highly twisted crpe thread, which comprises crpe twisting a thread of regenerated cellulose filaments and during at least the last part of the twisting passing the thread through hot water in a container having below the water level a small hole for the passage of the thread, so that twist is inserted as the thread passes through the hot water, at least-the last part of the twisting being efiected by the rotation of a package from which the thread is being drawn. a A

. HENRY DREYFUS. 

